Willamette Week Review

March 8, 2011

"The pupusa is El Salvador's answer to grilled cheese. A starchy outer layer—in this case, thick corn tortillas—surrounds a creamy, gooey mess of cheese. But don't stop at queso. Pupuseria El Buen Gusto offers a vast slate of fillings, including pork so soft it almost melts, and loroco, an edible flower reminiscent of broccoli. This immaculate, pumpkin-walled joint features plastic tablecloth covers and
a menu hand-scrawled on neon poster board, but don't underestimate the food. In addition to pupusas ($3-$4), there's a selection of enchiladas, tacos and tamales ($2.50-$7.75). The flaky corn tamal has
a welcome sweetness. If you really wanna go for it (you did haul out to 82nd, after all), get some atole de elote ($2.50), a sweet drink made from maize meal and milk, to complement your hearty pupusa. It's warm and rich and thick, almost custardlike, and spiced with a liberal dose of cinnamon. Eat it with a spoon."

Rebecca Jacobson
Willamette Week • Portland, Oregon

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